Reflections on Israel
Shades of Gray
 

August 16, 1994

3:54 a.m.

My first full day in Israel in general and Jerusalem in particular is over. Thoughts of an amorphous nature overcome me. On the one hand, my childlike zeal is dampened by an odd sense of the familiar, How? Beset with sensory qualities so similar to my native Philippines environment, I am reminded. Often times, feelings overcome me, that I might really be in Israel. The heat is intense - no surprise there. Roads, driving conditions, car brands, etc. seem more, as distant from the ultra orderliness of a North American country. I feel myself thrust back to the glorious images of London. However fleeting, London has left a permanent mark on me, one almost feels compelled to go back. I discovered something about myself last night; despite the strong sense of adventure, I fear things exotic, things not fully understood. I my new found love for things English and initial recoil for things Israeli coming from my personal ability to relate? I think so. It must be realized and overcome. Another day is upon me, I feel renewed. What will I discover today?

On London:

The Underground, Picadilly, Soho, Buckingham Palace, St. James Park, Big Ben, Parliament Building, Westminster Abbey and South Ealing.

The Underground had once more overcome me with an odd sense of the familiar. It looked old. A neutral statement, no doubt. Part New York Subway, it’s color scheme (of routes) was eventually analyzed, understood and optimized. How?

First stop, Picadilly. What a wonderful sensory potpourri. The center was alive, vibrant and colorful. The neon lights reminded me of Times Square - yet Times Square might be another planet.

We slipped into Soho.....

Soho offered us a glimpse into modern England. How? Quite by accident my companions and I are part of a music video. Will I see myself on it? Hopefully. We decide Buckingham Palace is next on the Agenda. No changing of the guard. This will be my first glimpse into a feeling of the sense of big - a big that signifies "There is no doubt as to who is in charge here."

A casual walk through St. James Park, offered us - a reprieve, solace, a chance to collect. This feeling will soon pass. Young and old, some intertwined in loving embrace, children in reckless abandon, swans and ducks "ponding" in force. A multitude of languages other than English; fill me with a sense of wonder. We make our way to Big Ben. The prelude "Big" in Big Ben is no exaggeration. Finely crafted, detail so intricate, it reaches for the sky as if stating "I am here for all England to know it is 5:00 p.m. ..... That is my cue. we must best be getting back, but there is still the Westminster Abbey.

The Abbey was a choleric experience. People everywhere. How was one to genuflect and connect with the almighty in this sea of commercialism? I mentioned that I could relate to a then virtually unknown Jesus of Nazareth - who screamed (I think) at those who turned his Father’s house to a den of sin. Alas, I was calmed, the need to genuflect strong. We moved on. It was dinner at Arnold’s and a drink in South Ealing. The plane onward to Israel.


King David Hotel

Y

August 16, 1994

3:00 p.m.

After the first full day of work, the only images I have are of heat. Zelman (the coordinator for the North American section) mentions that it is indeed too hot, even for Jerusalem, this time of year. It feels like 120 degrees in the shade.

The day starts early, 7:30 a.m. it begins with an introduction by Dr. Mikhail Avishai - the Director.

Dr. Avishai starts of with an explanation of Dr. Zohari - a pioneer of plant study in Jerusalem. In his works, Dr. Zohari found there to be 1,000 native plant species in and around Jerusalem.

Jerusalem is unique in that being 2,400 feet up and being this close to the equator, both Northern Temperate and Semi-Arid conditions exist.

Why a Botanical Garden?

Jerusalem needs gardens as a tourist attraction and for agricultural purposes. With the above mentioned diversity in environmental conditions. Jerusalem is unique in its conditions with needs different from any are in Israel. He further mentioned (and this part it is my impression); foremost on the agenda is that plants, grown from seed, are used for commercial development. He gave many examples.

He mentioned Mark Twain’s book "Innocence Abroad" - I must get this and compare my reflections.

Not a minor concern, according to Dr. Avishai is the issue of the Environment. He also plants for Biological Diversity. The key to his success is that all plants are introduced as seed. When asked about the dominant species, he rambles on about the desertification. I wonder why?

On to the gardens.....

He mentioned that the whole are is divided into 10 "Geographical Areas."

We are walked through Central Asia - which is said to be 4 acres of a 30 acre Botanical Garden. Upon completion, it is estimated to reach 60 acres.

The dome is a conservatory of a Tropical Rainforest.

What followed was a long walk through areas supporting plants from Australia, North America, Central Europe, California, Central America and the European Alpine.

He goes on about Hank Greenspan - a patron of Israeli war efforts.

We land in the South African section, a close to our "Orientation." He mentions about soil nutrition, it was vague, more details as I get it.

He mentions all about a burial tradition concerning rocks on graves or golel - which also means end of story.

Work today consisted of removing weed in the North American section and collecting dead grass in the Central Asian region.

The grunt work seemed pointless. However, pumped by Dr. Avishai’s talk on the importance of our work, I plod on. One consolation is that I will get a good tan from being out in 100 degrees.

A curious thing to note is that these people seem inhospitable to foreigners and will avoid any eye contact. Why?

Y

August 16, 1994

sometime in the evening .....

The whirlwind continues. Tonight it was Ben-Yehuda. A Soho type district pulsating with youth and vitality. A sea of humanity not unlike a New York or Hong Kong street by day, except this was by night. We had dinner with Reuven at "Cheesecake" - had a really good stuffed potato. Walked around Ben-Yehuda and got Verne’s gift.

Thanks to the Sar-El discount, it was affordable. Purchased my first Falafel. This was for tomorrow’s 10:30 a.m. lunch break. Diane was eager to try one so I decided to buy one and share it. We made our way back by bus. The same bus to be used to enter the Old City.....

The Old City.


Station 6, Via Dolorosa

Y

August 17, 1994

Great work day.....

First Glimpse of the Old City.....

Work day went way smoother. Lots of great movement and sense of accomplishment. Our task is to work with Zelman to prepare the site for North American trees. A large portion of the hillside was cleaned up and the earth mixed. We will be completing the assignment tomorrow. As the "Mid-Day Sun" reached its fiercest, Zelman moved us to a shaded area underneath trees for eventual planting. Work is much smoother. I am glad to be here.

Images of the Old City.....

Jaffa Gate and the surrounding walls gives one a feeling of a city made to ward off attack. Soft colored castle-like walls complete with indentations dominate the scenery.

The main plaza conjures up images of Casablanca type bazaars. On the right, I am again reminded that the best "deals" on jewelry (quality and price) can be found in this one store in the Armenian Quarter - I am reminded of the girls back home. I make the purchases.

Actual chronological events escape me. I only have impressions. From what I saw of the Christian Quarter, I was inundated with goods, traded in a market fashion not unlike Manila. A peek at the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher holds more wonder and mystery now - more than ever.

The Jewish Quarter left me appreciating a sense of orderliness absent in Christian and Muslim sections. The Shewarma was a bit disappointing. I bought a Falafel for tomorrow’s brunch.

The Muslim section left a lasting image on me. It lacked orderliness more typical of Third World Nations than a developing one. I am fading fast. more impressions as I can take the time. Oh’ a strange tension and state of unease.


Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Y

August 18, 1994

4:45 a.m.

It is a dawning of a new day. The air is cool. the dorm setups have been changed, I have slept in a new room. I find myself unable to sleep to 5:00 or 6:00 a.m. Roused at 3:30 or 4:00 a.m., I find myself struggling. What to do? What will my new roommate be like? How will my state of solitude be altered? I have arrived. My first whirlwind tour of Jerusalem was a blast. Almost as if an outline of things I wish to explore in more detail.

Repose comes difficult to me. As I am getting more established, my confidence grows. My triumph will come when I cam make my way to the Old City and back myself. Only then and then truly will my confidence be justified and fulfilled.

Today will be unique. Work will commence early (6:30 a.m.) so we can get off at 1:00 p.m. Not a bad deal. Today will also be the first of a series of "talks" - "Jerusalem" conducted by a lady Li’at. We will explore the Jewish Quarter in more detail tomorrow. Time to bring out the slide film.


Vista

Y

August 18, 1994

8:30 p.m.

The meeting with Li’at is over. Back in the room I am filled with pleasant memories of the day and great anticipation for tomorrow.

The day started, as expected early - 6:30 a.m. We headed for the sight originally worked on and took almost all morning to finish it, Morning ends at around 10:00 a.m. - lunch ends at 10:30. Funny thing happened today, I lost my Falafel. All morning long as I scrapped the hill, all I could think of was lunch. Who cares, I am getting tired of Falafel anyway.

The most satisfying work today consisted of (more than the completion of the hill) was the maintenance of the grove assigned to me. Asked to clear the root area of weed and mulching the area, I completed the task on time - 1:00 p.m. Great day, great workout, great color, no Falafel, lots done. It feels good to be able to make a contribution - no matter how small.

Dinner was a real experience. Louise decided to redo the kitchen with Spaghetti sauce. She also almost burned the kitchen down by dropping Salad Dressing on a hat pan. Building saved - done - life goes on.

Li’at - now here is an interesting story. He story revolved around Operation Solomon and the logistical achievement of the Israeli army.

Apparently, it took some 36 (may 24-26, 1991) hours to move 14,000+ Ethiopian Jews to Israel. When Gen. Mangisto began a communist regime (or something to this effect) - the Jews were placed in a compromising position. It is mandated as law, that any Jew wishing to come to Israel (and avoid anti-Semitism, among other things) can do so. In this case, the army stepped in. With 34 planes - 33 Israeli and 1 Ethiopian, the deed was done - mission accomplished. Now the readjustment and assimilation begins. it is expected that the readjustment will be handled by the next generation. They are, as we speak, in community camps. The story goes on.

We are expected to start at 7:00 a.m. We will be in the Jewish Quarter and Western Wall for 2 hours. On to the Holocaust Museum for 2 hours. Lunch. We will hit the Museum of Ancient Cities for 1 hour and then party over.


More Vista

Y

August 19, 1994

8:35 p.m.

The day started out at around 7:00 a.m. Li’at took us to the Old City via the Zion Gate. Into the Jewish Quarter we went, we started out by examining the Corda. The Corda is the typical Roman setup for a city. I was told twice, once by Diana and then by Li’at that a Roman city has a standard configuration. The Corda is an activity center (much like a Mall). The history of the Corda examined and explained goes back to Titus and Vespasian, it is my understanding that the Romans were creating Aleal Capitalina.

In a short time, we were at the "Hurvah" or Ruined House. An old Synagogue that was destroyed almost three times and was finally abandoned. All that was reconstructed from this was an arch to signify its scale.

I picked up a few words. A "Mizuza" is a prayer article placed by the entrance to a home. It holds the "Shima", a prayer of reverence. A "Tsitsis" is a vest worn by a Hasidim.

The Western Wall will always hold a special place in my heart. As I inserted my prayer, I reached out to touch the rock in a gesture of respect and prayer. Overcome with a deep sense of emotion; I reiterated my prayer for Israeli peace; happiness and health to the family; and thanks to God for giving me life, allowing me to experience all I have and a chance to serve.

Two things struck me today. "The stiff necked Jew" and "The heart as light as a feather".

As we were touring "Yad Vashem" - Gilda explained to me the concept of the "stiff neck." It is derived from the notion that the Jews bow to no man. This is a proud and vibrant people - they deserve peace. As we wondered around Ben Yehuda - I pondered if this youth realized the tenuous nature of Israel’s existence. I am told they do. Will peace make them soft? Maybe. Still, Israel is a nation deserving of peace and the Jews deserving of understanding.

The Yad Vashem (or the Holocaust Museum) was a predictable site. It was none the less moving and reminding of the darker side of humanity. We must work and work hard to prevent this disgrace and crime to humanity from rearing it’s ugly head, in Nazi Germany or beyond. The memorial to the children was designed more for emotional effect - it was effective. Five candles in a play with mirrors emulated the stars. Candles for the light of hope. The starlight qualities, as a reminder of God’s promise to Abraham that he will have children as plentiful as the stars in the sky and specs of sand in the shore. The former conjures up visions and hope. The rest of the museum, including the "Valley of the Communities" were a variation on the same theme.

It was on to the Bible Lands Museum, Jerusalem.

A forgettable, but nonetheless interesting display of ancient artifacts combined to piece the ancient civilization to Alexander the Great. The tour should have been longer.

We left to come home. Our group decided to go back to the Old City to witness the Sabbath celebration at the Western Wall. We were not disappointed. Children dancing, flags waiving, and finally the rows of men, joined at arms level singing prayers - an impressive display.

Prior to this, I was shopping at the Moslem section - bought and Arab headpiece, some vests, had some Shewarma and then moved to witness the above mentioned.

The rapid succession of events has caught me off guard, I may need a week to sort it out and articulate it. Thanks to notes and journals, I may recall it all. Thank you Lord.

I almost forgot.....

"The heart as light as a feather."

In the Bible Museum, I saw an ancient Egyptian depiction of a collection of deities. With Anubis weighing the heart against a feather, it was apparent that the Pharaoh’s heart was "not heavy." Reference is made to this in Moses’ confrontation with the Pharaoh as the Lord "hardened his heart" - thus making it heavy.

It is my fervent desire to leave my hardened heart behind and start fresh, with a heart as light as a feather.


Inside some hotel, an artsy fartsy shot.....

Y

August 20, 1994

Shabbat - a very Christian day .....

Funny how the day of rest becomes the most physically active. Louise, Kim and I decide to hike to all the Christian sites.

We began by walking from the Giv’at Ram campus down to the Old City. Our agenda was to walk around the Holy City thus avoiding it entirely. Lots of the significant Christian sites are outside the confines of the Old City.

We arrive at the Jaffa Gate, Louise needs to change some money. We are off to Rockefeller Museum to facilitate Kim’s archeological plans. Prior to arriving in the museum we pass the Damascus Gate. There is a demonstration in progress - somewhat curious of the goings on, we plod on for safety reasons.

It was on to the Church of All Nations. Being closed, we were in search of something to eat. The girls decide to slum it at the bottom of the hill. They decided on the notion that nothing is open till 2:30 p.m. - it was noon. I decide to run up the hill to the top and pre-examine the sites. Sort of like an advance party. I take what I feel are spectacular shots. I hope they all turn up.

As I returned, we decide to take the other road up to the Mt. of Olives, find food and use the road I had taken up previously - down. This way we hit all significant sites in the "proper" order.

After eating, our first stop was the Church of the Ascension. A funny looking building from which it is believed Christ ascended. Seemed a little bogus to me, but what the heck.

It was on to the Pater Noster Convent - a place where Jesus was said to have sought refuge. A cute place. The most striking feature was the Lord’s prayer in just about every language.

Prior to reaching the Garden of Gethsemane, we were to explore Dominus Flevit and the Mt. of Olives Cemetery. Dominus Flevit, where Jesus is said to have cried - O’ Jerusalem, etc. A moving site Jerusalem is from this angle. We discover "Ali" who shows us the graves of (he says) of the Begins, Maxwell, and Schindler.

It was finally on to the Church of All Nations. I wish I had more time there. If I was not forced to wrap a skirt around my legs with that funny cloth, then maybe. So a small prayer then off to Hezekiah’s Tunnel and Absalom’s Tomb. These two sites conjured up images of exotic Nepalese (or at least what I perceived these temples to look like).

We tried to find King David’s Tomb and the Room of the Last Supper. We passed it. Then it was home.

I vow to see both sites above mentioned when I go to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The Dome of the Rock will have to wait also.

I feel physically spent yet note tired. I am looking forward to work in the morning. Another great day. I am dreading when the whirlwind ends. It might be Miguelus Flevit.


Is this really were the Last supper was held and King David was buried?

Y

August 22, 1994

The day after .....

After what? The attack of the killer "D". After a whole day of walking, dinner and a shower, all seemed all right. It wasn’t. Around 1:30 a.m. I felt the worst pain in my gut. Doubled up, I ran for the nearest Water Closet. The story goes on.

Around 6:30 a.m. I mention to Reuven my condition and to see if he could get some medical attention. He tries?

The only saving grace afforded me is a lovely lady named Freda Wald. Much like mommy, she patiently give me Imodium, cooks rice and explains what I should do I sleep the rest of the day. I miss the work, I miss the independence, I miss the heat, I miss Jerusalem. Lord, please give me health - soonest.

I guess we must all pay for our excesses. Is this mine?

Y

August 22, 1994

Tomb of the Kings; Mea Sharem.

Tomb of the Kings is a misnomer. Poorly named because it is actually a tomb of an Iraqi queen of old.

We explored the inner sanctum, only to find empty burial chambers. it is cold and damp. We, however, move on to Mea Sharem - the den of Anti-Zionists.

Mea Sharem conjures up images of irreconcilable differences. So close to East Jerusalem, or an Arab section, it is a haven for those who believe Israel as a Jewish state is the reason the Messiah has not arrived.

We must not stay still for too long, we were being threatened by stoning by some kids. We were not welcome. I can see how we were offending their "space". This is the kind of upbringing that breeds insensitivity towards others and kills brotherly love. So much for a peaceful co-existence.....


Scene at the Muslim Quarter. An up and coming Ronaldo?

Y

Fatigue overtakes me. However, this day needs recording.

We start early, Judah and Judith are inadvertently left behind - a major loss. Judah is an insightful man.

The first stop was Caesarea. As an aside, I spoke to Reuven about power lines that litter the countryside. My inquiry was mainly concerning the source of the power. He says it is funny I should ask because Caesaria has a coal generated power station that supplies most of the country . It is an awesome sight, three stacks ungraciously protrude from the vast expanse as if to gaudily announce their presence. I am impressed. What vulnerability. If there is one place that would cripple this nation, this would be it. There is no military presence. Why? I am sure this has all been taken care of. I hope.....

The Roman Theater in Caesarea was our first stop. History comes alive as I imagine Paul trying to make heads or tails of his situation. Images of Pompous Romans in white togas invade my psyche - however short lived. The sea takes me by surprise. A sudden calm overcomes me. I see the familiar waves - so how I long to relive those carefree moments in my youth. My youth was filled with what I feel is a sense of the unresolved. The last statement is another story. I digress. The sounds, smell and sight of the undulating blue brings back nothing but good memories.

We are allowed in the dig. A hot bed of sand dunes partially covered by tarps masquerading as tents. The center of this excavation is the Hippodrome. It will be impressive when uncovered. Where is Herod’s palace? I must get Josephus’ "The Jewish Wars." How the Old Testament and some New will come alive after this trip.

The Crusader City and the Aqueducts are a throwback to the Intramuros days. Stone fortifications are as impressive as they are pragmatically sound. We leave Caesaria after an anti-climatic visit to some Byzantine figures.

Caesaria as a residential area is one of the poshest, greenest and cleanest places in Israel. There are those three stacks in the horizon again.

After lunch it was off to the Zirchon Yakov Winery. Apparently responsible for almost 70% of local consumption, the wine and the tour were forgettable. a good break from the "Archeological", it was good humor.

The Muhraqah was next on the agenda. Quaint and quiet, it was said to be the site of the legendary confrontation between Elijah and the prophets of Ba’al. The view is majestic. the air calming.

The last quarter of this epic day was the visit to the Kibbutz Yifat.

The walk through the pioneer museum gives me a better appreciation for the heart and determination of this wild and proud people. Would the Arabs be as diligent to the land if they were in charge? It would be very different to think of Israel "run" any other way.

The evening meal I filling. The local bread was sought after fair. So much to eat. The Kibbutz experience has me thinking. The heat and wine dull my thinking. It is my greatest fear that my journal will sound like travel logs and will leave little reflection to ponder back on. What with all this activity, work, getting sick, etc. How will I get "quality time" the other side is - lots of time to introspect when this is all over. Where to next? How do I top this?


YMCA

Y

August 26, 1994

7:00 p.m.

Yesterday was a quite one. Work went smoothly. Louise, Michelle and I worked the top of the hill of the North American Section. Weeds removed, site prepared, we are ready to plant.

General Davide showed up as well. Gave us nice talk on Sar-El. I mentioned to him in all sincerity that he should not stop this program. If he needs a spokesman (or spokesperson) I would be more than happy.

We take Len’s rental to the "El Gaucho." A most meat place. I am craving for steak and potatoes - I am not disappointed. Funny, it seems like all toilet paper in Jerusalem (maybe Israel) is green. We walk to the Western Wall - I am fading fast. We get back (with much struggle), I fall asleep in the car. What an experience.

There are a few things I picked on. Reuven is our "Madrich" or guide/counselor.

A typical Jewish headpiece is called a "Kippur"? and the Arab headpiece is called a Kafia - I have bought both.

"Good Yon Tif" means good holidays or good year. I was originally told that "Tova Tiqvatano" is Happy New Year - now I am told that it is "Shana Tova" What is it?

All this trivia. it must be written.


Children at play in the Muslim Quarter

Y

August 26, 1994

Today was a test of will.....

The Ramada breakfast care of "Liz" was a great start on the day.

Jonathan and I explore the possibility of enrolling at the American Institute of Holy Land Studies. I am not so sure.

The campus had all the trappings of a fine hostel. The accommodations and cafeteria are adequate. the campus "lawn" and study center is quaint. the breeze was calm. The people, well .....

A little chat with the President and we will have a correspondence or contact started. the rest is in the hands of god. is this a foreshadowing of things to come? Will things evolve? Do I want them to?

The days highlights were two "uncertain" sites. King David’s tomb and the Room of the Last Supper. the authenticity of both sites is in question. Is this a coincidence or is there some correlation to the above mentioned. I have decided to pursue. If it is not in the "plan", I will not be given the energy and resources to complete. Your will for me, please make it so.

We explore the YMCA, the King David Hotel and various other Hotels and the "Moriah". One hotel, just like the other. a few pictures and the great synagogue. The walk around Jerusalem - I am getting to know it better.

The one thing that is straight now id the location of the El Gaucho restaurant. from the angle we entered, it is actually just behind the Ben-Yehuda arcade. I was certain it was closer to the Old City. I was corrected and it duly noted and acknowledged.

The rest of the day was one string of Liz just talking her head off. She just talks for the sake of it. Jonathan did point out that it is one of my "mountains to climb." True. I will simply avoid rather than try to overcome. Is this a character trait I should resolve? More reflection as I "have" to deal with type. I will avoid. Lots of prayers for strength. Jonathan is not what I perceived him to be. Tomorrow, the Muslim Quarter. This trip only gets better.....


The Jerusalem Great Synagogue

Y

August 27, 1994

A day with the Muslims.....

We take a taxi to 32 Jaffa street. The tour to the Muslim Quarter begins slowly. Our guide fills us with trivia.

The boundaries as they are today evolved out of natural boundaries based on population concentration.

There are actually 8 gates in Jerusalem. With the "New Gate", it is actually 7 + 1. the walls during Suleiman the Magnificent, were actually "restored", during the year 1421 - 1432.

We have lunch and hit the Al-Aqsa arcade at 1:30 p.m. (it closes at 3:30 p.m. for prayer). The Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock were (are) magnificent. The detail and information from the sights were amazing. one has to be there to experience it. At a time of greater "reflection" I hope to remember enough to describe things in more detail.

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher was a Zoo. A preponderance of people, it was a closest thing to chaos I wish to experience.

My second "religious experience" was at the Tomb of Jesus. A prayer of thanks and on we go.

A curious thing happened at the Muslim Quarter. We were caught in the middle of a crowd and it tightened. Situations such as these increase risk. Proximity in any quarter could potentially mean knives, panic, heat - I was glad to be out of it. I took lots of pictures of kids in the Muslim Quarter - I hope they come out.

All in all, a great day, a great trip. I am saddened to go home so soon. what is waiting for me?


The Muslim Quarter

Y

August 28, 1994

A good day at work, a good meal, a quick tour, tea .....

Work was very smooth and productive. we were all anxious to plant. Out whole site is ready. we were disappointed. No problem.

I had a full day. Moved to close work at 12:30 p.m. - I showered. Had lunch at the Menza - Goulash, I think. All is well.

We tour the Herodian Quarter. The tour is once more, hurried yet somehow lacking in significance.

Tea at Barsheba’s was awesome. A few "tidbits" about the wall.

Herod altered the mountain to produce a platform effect.

The Western Wall is mainly a retaining wall to keep the fill. The Western Wall is actually the "framing of the temple mount of the second temple."

There are 613 commandments. According to the Rabbi’s wife - 200 of which are on hold because there is no temple.

The rock is another anomaly. It is believed that from the rock or Mt. Moriah the whole world is believed to have emanated from.

This was the site of the culmination of Abraham’s faith - more on this later.

This morning, I meant to write about thoughts I had a couple of days ago. Steven brought up a point that it is a common perception that Jewish Law and Jews, are not sincere. they are. On this account - every on in their sincerity will never reach a point of agreement. Who know?

On with the trip.

Y

August 29, 1994

My thoughts go homeward. The trip has slowed down - reality is setting in. The honeymoon is fading.

We planted today. I hope the trees survive. No, I hope the trees flourish. We are all pleasantly surprised. The story goes on.

We were in Ben Yehuda. We were asked to move out, take our beers and pay. The funny thing is, I stayed to ask for my change. This whole experience is so surrealistic to almost be existentialist. I feel the reality, or do I?

It was a nice, quaint evening. My thoughts fly homeward. I am down to my last few Shekels. What changes will I make? How empowered will I be?

Feelings of ambivalence overcome me. This is the first "stop" or reprieve from the hussle and bussle of our stay. I actually enjoyed the beer. My memory will remain fresh. I have the "Bomb Scare Mug."

After having spoken to Hillary about "nuance" and the articulation thereof, I feel that I may be overwhelming. It was good for me to verbalize it.

The trip is going to climax with the Sea of Galilee, I am looking forward to it. More as it happens.


"Smiles in a turbulent sea of unrest"

Y

September 02, 1994

It has been a while since my last writing. I am getting lazy. The week has slowed to a grinding halt. All is over. The work, the gossip, the fun, the dynamics, the tours. I will miss this place. For more reasons than one I have left my heart in Jerusalem.

Today, right after work, I dashed off to #40 Jaffa to get some money changed. Steve and I are off to Ammunition Hill. It gives me a strange sense of pride to be a "Temporary Israeli." I have grown to love and respect these people. The culmination of a youthful understanding of the "Wandering Jew" or "Fighting Jew" has come full circle.

The Sar-El program ended with a dinner at 72 or 74 Agrippaz St. - odd ending. We are given certificates. Another one for the wall.

My emotions are no longer jumbled. At 12:30 a.m. my thoughts are more meditative. I am feeling an uneasy peace. The good byes will be difficult.

Thinking back to Ammunition Hill, what a monument! Steve mentioned to me, that every generation of Jews has felt persecution and enough is enough - hence Israel.

I have taken a personal oath to fight this cancer of anti-Semitism. Why? Is man so ignorant that he must forever see reasons to hate. Are we really "above" the so called savage beast? Will we ever transcend our bestial tendencies and live and let live. Till then, for a proud and tiny nation with few friends, it is a struggle to survive. A tenuous existence. Will we as a world persist in this madness? It is sad.

The main impression I have had of Jerusalem are: sirens, rocks and green toilet paper.

Never have I heard so many sirens go off at all times of the day. Some are close, some (during work time) are far. Always present. Hm.

The Judean Hills, I am convinced, is one giant rock. I have never seen it rockier.

Green Toilet Paper, or is it?

Homeward bound. Why should I return to "that" reality? I am scared. It is so fascinating here - the diversity, the people, the center of the universe.

Still, I have much more to learn. Thank you, Lord, for the vitality, frame and state of mind, health and wealth to enjoy all this. What will you extract as compensation? How will I serve thee as payment? Show me a sign. Show me the way to your greater glory! Thank you. Why have I been so blessed? To what end? All I can say to you, is, from the bottom of my heart. I love you.

The morning brings new delights and adventures. Where to next? A sense of need for extreme caution overtakes me. Guide us in, and please, guide us out. Hm .....


"Lost"

Y

September 03, 1994

It has been a day since my last entry. Lots of activity has occupied me since then. Louise, Barb and myself had an adventure of sorts.

If my memory has not failed me, we left Jerusalem yesterday about noon. We headed for Tiberias via route 90 - through the Golan Heights. The occupied territories were nothing at all like the horror stories people from Jerusalem made them out to be. There was no stoning. There were no angry Palestinians. Was this because Friday is Muslim Sabbath?

The highway was desolate. There were badlands and Bedouin for as far as the eye could see. Coupled with the thatched green and the odd Bedouin goat or sheep herder, the vista had a look of desert. Despite the apparent vast emptiness, goats or sheep forage. I have to admit that a certain tension was felt until we arrived.

In Tiberias.

Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee was a complete contrast to the Golan. A fiesta to the eyes, the mixture of green and blue was soothing. It also signaled that we had arrived and were out of the Golan.

We checked in to the Lake Castle Hostel and stopped to eat. We stopped by a place called "Coconut" had a beer and listened to some soft music. It was a chance to collect. Being so close to Syria and Jordan, we noticed a difference in "look".

Before dinner, we stopped by what was marked "Church of Scotland". A young girl offered us water and a rather odd explanation of the church. I will research this later.

After a beer, we go to sleep.

Early the next morning, we head out to Tel Aviv via Nazareth. Before I get into all this, I just wanted to say, that nothing prepared us for Tiberias. All set to see bunch of ruins ala Caesaria, we were pleasantly surprised.

Nazareth was a quick stop over for a few photos. We rushed to Tel Aviv to get Felix the Fiat back in time. We did, with only 10 minutes to spare. We check into this truly charming Aviv hotel, just above the Picasso Cafe. Some of the most stunning girls I have seen are waiting tables. We spend the rest of the afternoon at Old Jaffa and the beach.

I am collecting to go home. Is it? One more night in magical Israel. Did it happen? Yes. Was I all here? Not always. Will I remember it all? I hope so. I am anxious to go home. More on the plane. I hope all the shots come out.

Y


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